Fakarava : A Garden of Eden on the Ocean

In the heart of the Tuamotu Archipelago, this atoll reveals a rich environment of exceptional beauty. Here, an abundant marine life is juxtaposed against stunning landscapes that are just as seductive. This atoll is recognized on a global level with its prestigious designation as a UNESCO biosphere reserve.

It was erected in 1874 entirely out of coral. As a true paradise, Tumakohua, another name for this southern pass, is a prime diving spot. Divers come from all over the world to admire the extremely abundant marine life. The protected coral radiates magnificence. The enchanting dives are thrilling due to encounters with hundreds of sharks. In French Polynesia, these species are strictly protected. They are the kings of the passes who have no use for divers, whom they must consider to be funny-looking fish who make lots of bubbles! They are much more interested in the thousands of marbled loaches (grouper) that gather every June to reproduce in a glorious ballet that literally camouflages the entire underwater reef. Nature and travel channels all over the world often cover this little-known phenomenon.

The main village of Fakarava is Rotoava. Located to the north, it is home to about 850 people, which is most of the population. There are three small shops that sell necessities, a post office, a town hall, an elementary school (further schooling takes place in Tahiti or Rangiroa), pearl boutiques, a pharmacy, a few tourism activity providers and three restaurants. So far, Fakarava does not have a large hotel; but family-owned guest inns provide lodging. These small establishments do not offer all the amenities of a four star hotel, but they enable direct and friendly interactions with the locals. They have delicious local cuisine (grilled fish, poisson cru, sea food, and more). Guests sleep in charming little bungalows along the lagoon. It is very calming to feel the spirit of Robinson Crusoe while falling asleep to the rhythm of tiny waves lapping the sand just a few yards away.

Arrival in paradise

 Three birds pounce frantically in and out of the sea spray looking for prey. At sea in the tropics, birds are a sign that land is near. Right then on the horizon, an island slowly appears in the salty drizzle from the waves of the reef. We can make out the shadowy silhouette of tiny coconut leaves dancing in the breeze. However, it is not really an island but an atoll since the soil is entirely comprised of coral. Still called schooners by the Polynesians—probably as a nostalgic reference to the times of sailing ships—small freighters leave from Papeete to replenish the atolls in the Tuamotus along a 1,500 km stretch (932 mi) east of Tahiti. The Maeva Nui left the agitation of the Papeete harbor five days ago loaded with freight. As we get closer to the reef, an old lighthouse shaped like an Incan temple peaks out between the coconut trees. Built in 1957 under the urging of the director of public works Madame Degage-Taui, Topaga lighthouse at 27m high (90 ft) had its own particular function. It was meant to be lit only in times of emergency, such as during medical evacuations. A large fire was lit at the top so neighboring islands could see it and send help.

A delightful encounter with a pretty smile

Another place and other scenes: at the airport, the energy is just as palpable. A plane filled with tourists just landed. As we exit the small aerodrome building, we are warmly welcomed by a sweet hot breeze that wraps around us like cotton. A feeling of well-being stays with each visitor. Some people say that a sojourn to the rhythm of the Tuamotus is therapeutic indeed. A convoy of cars bound for the family guest inns in the village leaves the airport. This is daily rush hour in Fakarava. About a dozen vehicles filled with visitors pass in front of Mahia’s house. In Fakarava, the colors of the lagoon are enough to take your breath away and the locals perfect this decor with their kindness and charm. They are never stingy when it comes to telling the history of their island either.

Every day, Mahia Varas, 82, watches all the people pass by and smiles at each one. She is rarely alone. Her family and friends come to see her daily. A giant tropical almond tree (Terminalia catappa) has towered over her land all her life. The tree is 350 years old and is one of the oldest and largest trees in the Tuamotu Archipelago. With an amused smile, Mahia says, “This tree witnessed me grow up, but I never saw it grow!” Perhaps in the Tuamotus more than anywhere else, the trees run the test of time and are part of islander life. There is not enough superficiality or modernity here to disrupt the love and connection that humans have with nature. It offers them almost everything they need. Recently, Mahia saw the construction of a traditional boat-building site next to her house. Boat builders created a large paumotu sailing canoe (paumotu is the Tahitian word for something that comes from the Tuamotu islands). This was an ambitious yet realistic community project. Mahia navigated a sailing canoe when she was a young girl in order to fetch copra from “the sector.” She was peperu – which means she was the one who steered the boat. Her sisters made up the rest of the crew. “It was a woman’s deal,” she mused. She was 17 the last time she sailed on this type of craft.

Fakarava: a biosphere reserve recognized by UNESCO.

Fakarava is one of seven atolls—and the largest as far as land mass and population—that make up the biosphere reserve that carries its name. This reserve, the pride and joy of the inhabitants, covers 2,682 km² /1,035 sq. mi of land and sea area and has 1,500 residents of which 850 live on Fakarava. This reserve includes the neighboring atolls of Aratika, Kauehi, Niau, Raraka, Taiaro and Toau. This vast area reconciles environmental protection and the development of human activities. During pre-European times, long before the creation of this reserve, the concepts of a biosphere and preservation were already a reality, although they were not described or thought of in modern scientific terms. At the time, humans were well aware that the environment was fragile and its preservation was vital since the lagoon was a major source of food. People practiced rähui, which refers to leaving areas of the sea unexploited in order to allow time for species in the lagoon to regenerate. The village was not sedentary and it moved to the rhythm of the rähui over four different sectors.

Once the population had used up one sector, then elders determined it was time to find more abundant areas. These areas were rotated. Since planted regions were left untouched, the people returned to harvest them months later once they arrived full circle. Taro, a nutritious tuber in tropical regions, was consumed all throughout French Polynesia. Fakarava taro was very reputable because it was grown in brine, which gave it a hint of salt that Polynesians at the time truly appreciated. Today, tämanu oil is produced in Fakarava. To the north, there is only one couple, Terai and Tepoe, who practice this activity. Once the nuts are shelled, they are dried then pressed to expel the therapeutic oil. This oil is used in traditional medicine for massages and to heal scabs. Its properties are well-known and it is even called the “magic oil.”

Today, Fakarava is 80 % Catholic and 20 % Mormon, which is a religion that arrived 20 years after the Catholics. Both religions share the same cemetery. Rotoava’s first church was made of coral in 1896 before being replaced in 1951 with the current beautiful Catholic Church with its red roof and bright coral whitewashed walls. The Mormon temple is located at the entrance of the village close to the port. The first village on the atoll, Tetamanu, was built to the south. In 1820, there were about 375 inhabitants. By the end of the 19th century, it became evident that another part of the island would be better suited to building a village since it offered more protection from bad weather. This area is where Rotoava currently stands. The administration buildings in Rotoava date back to this period. Their relatively modern and solid appearance shows how Fakarava was an important center for commerce in the region due to the lagoon, which allows all kinds of ships to securely moor. Now, it is mostly yachts on tours around the world on their way from the Marquesas that moor in front of the village.

At nightfall, the lights from their masts blend with the starry sky, creating a lovely show under the full moon. Fakarava has everything visitors hope to find once they set foot on the island, such as tranquility magnificent scenery. The locals are kind and welcoming. They offer activities and excursions that will be cherished for a lifetime. Further, there will be the passionate conversations between fellow voyagers. Far away from the hustle and bustle of the world, the harmonious coral ring delicately posed on the Pacific truly reflects Fakarava’s gentle nature and leaves no one untouched. The shades of deep blue that inspired Matisse and other artists will leave such an impression that you will never forget this life experience across the water between the sky and the sea.