The West Coast of Tahiti: Between the Lagoon and Mountainous Valleys.

The legendary island of Tahiti is renowned as an earthly paradise. Above all, Tahiti is the largest island in French Polynesia due to its surface area. It also has the highest mountains and is the most populated. Here, we take you on a trip along the west coast.

Tahiti is divided into two geographic sectors, the west coast and the east coast, from the zero kilometer point (known as PK 0) that starts at the foot of the Papeete Cathedral. This division is normal for the island’s residents, who must cross through the capital city in order to pass from one side of the island to the other. These days, “Greater Papeete” extends along both coasts for more than 10 kilometers and includes the neighboring communes. Farther on, and even before attempting to go up the mountains, each coast has a unique landscape. The west coast, not as steep as the eastern side, is for the most part directly exposed to the Pacific Ocean with a vast protective lagoon. Most often, it is sunnier than the east coast. 

These circumstances have boosted urban sprawl in the areas closest to Papeete. The idyllic seascapes offered a good location to build several hotels, tourist organizations and a marina. However, once off the tourist path, the west coast offers a plethora of cultural and natural riches that will delight curious visitors.

Let us begin with a climb. Mount Marau, located in the most populous commune on the island, Faa’a, reaches a peak of 1,441m/4,727 ft. overlooking the Tahiti-Faa’a International Airport. It is accessible either by 4X4 or on foot for about 10 km/6 mi. on a dirt road while crossing luxurious vegetation and…cabbage plantations. The road ends with TV relay stations and a paragliding platform. A trail then leads to the summit where on a clear day, you have a stunning panoramic view over Papeete. To the northwest, Taata point can be seen along the coast. This wooded hill is hardly visible from the main road. It does not have ancient monuments; however, this important sacred site in Polynesian culture is where departing souls were believed to leave for the mythic Havai’i and the afterworld. A few years ago, the population rose up to protect it from real estate development.

As we continue, we reach Punaauia. Residentially, this commune is the second most-populated after Faa’a. The mountains provide a very desirable area to live due to the magnificent views over the ocean and the majestic silhouette of the sister island of Moorea that slices the horizon.

With hundreds of homes clinging to the slopes, the countryside has very little resemblance to the one Paul Gauguin discovered during his second trip to Tahiti in 1894; however, it still retains a particular charm. Punaruu valley, once an ancient habitat, is now an industrial area. Hikers will want to explore a spectacular site from here: Tamanu plateau. Orange trees planted in the 19^th century have turned wild and are now part of a fruit-harvesting festivity held every July that has become a tradition. Fruit carriers descend the mountain carrying up to 50 kg/ 110 lbs. on their backs.

On the seaside at PK 15, there is Fisherman’s Point (La Pointe des Pêcheurs). Nowadays, a beautiful large park is situated along the coastline on the spot where the Musée de Tahiti et des îles was built around 40 years ago. It replaced Punaauia’s first Protestant temple constructed during the 19^th century on a group of marae (sacred sites of worship) dedicated to Oro, ancient Polynesia’s god of war and fertility. This is the site where the battle of Fe’i Pei took place in 1815. Pomare II, who converted to Christianity, went to battle with followers of the ancient religion and emerged victorious. Of course, the museum is a mandatory stop. There is an entire collection of ancient artifacts, one of the most extensive in the Pacific (see table).

About 20 kilometers from Papeete, the commune of Paea has two marae. Ta’ata marae was restored in several phases. Perhaps it is here that the famous English explorer and navigator Captain Cook witnessed a human sacrifice in 1777. Arahurahu marae was completely rebuilt during the 1950s. Performances that reenact ancient rites often take place here: wedding ceremonies, coronations of arii (chiefs), dances, music and singing.

Farther, in the commune of Papara at PK 39.5, a black sand beach located at the mouth of the Taharuu River welcomes surfers who take advantage of spectacular, regular swells from May through October. This spot is one of the most reputable in all of French Polynesia. Expert surfers and body boarders—young and not-so-young—put on a wonderful show for spectators who lazily sunbathe on the black sand. On weekends, Tahitian families from the area scurry here in joyous disorder to enjoy the sea and the coolness of the river.

Not far from here—and unfortunately, barely recognizable— is Maha’i-atea marae. This was Tahiti’s largest marae before the arrival of the Europeans. The marae was built quite recently, between 1766-1768, and according to Captain Cook who saw it in 1769, it was “incredible” due to its dimensions. Shaped like a terraced pyramid, it was more than 13 m/42 ft. high and measured 81 X 26.5 m (266 ft. X 87 ft.). The marae was contained within a paved space of more than 860 sq. ft. A hundred years later, the site was turned into a quarry.

A little farther than PK 40 on the mountain side, you’ll see the 3,000 acre Atimaono Golf Course. It was built on a former cotton, coffee and sugar cane plantation established by the Englishman William Stewart. This venture, which ended in bankruptcy, was made possible due to importing “Coolie” labor which initiated the Polynesian Chinese community that is present today. This immense plain is the largest on the entire island. At one time, it was considered as a site to build French Polynesia’s international airport instead of in its current location, which is a little cramped between the lagoon and the city. This project idea fell into oblivion, leaving this spectacular site intact, much to the delight of golfers and farmers.

We are now at PK 45. The commune of Mataiea once welcomed painter Paul Gauguin from 1891 to 1893 during his first stay in Tahiti. He created famous works of art in Mataiea, such as Ia Orana Maria (Hail Mary) and Femme au Mango. Two kilometers away, you’ll come across Vaipahi gardens and a waterfall. This is a refreshing place highlighted with the opulent colors of flowers. This 2.5 acre delightful haven invites a peaceful stroll throughout its natural riches. This is a necessary stop on the way.

Farther still, there is a cross trail only accessible by 4X4 (see table, “Hikes”) that leads into the heart of the island and that which—via a mountain pass and a tunnel—meets up with the east coast and Papenoo valley, the largest valley on the island. Lake Vaihiria is located half-way at the bottom of a volcanic crater. 19^th century French writer Pierre Loti described the lake as, “A dead sea lost in the central mountains surrounded by steep, craggy hills that carve their sharp silhouettes through the night sky. The water is cold and deep and nothing moves it. Not a breeze, no noise, no living things, not so much as a fish…”